KoreaRegions & prefectures

Gwangju

The city of Korean democracy, and a reputation for the best food in the country.

Capital: Gwangju
Status: Metropolitan city
Region: Honam (Jeolla)
Must-see: The May 18th National Cemetery
Local specialty: Tteokgalbi, banchan spreads, kimchi

In May 1980 the people of Gwangju rose against Chun Doo-hwan’s coup and held the city for five days before a crackdown that killed several hundred. Long labelled a riot by the regime, the episode is now recognised as a founding moment of democratisation. Since 1995 the city has hosted Asia’s most significant contemporary art biennale, and its cooking, with more banchan than anywhere else, sets the standard.

What to see there

Places, dishes and traditions tied to this territory.

BanchanKorean side dishes served with main meal.The Gwangju UprisingFive days in May 1980 when one city held out alone against the army, commemorated every year.

In the magazine

Articles that cover this topic.