Hitsumabushi

The dish arrives in a wooden tub, the eel lacquered and cut into strips over rice. The protocol is fixed: divide it in four, eat the first quarter plain, the second with condiments, spring onion, wasabi and nori, the third doused in dashi broth like ochazuke, and the fourth whichever way you liked best. Nagoya grills eel without steaming it first, unlike Tokyo, giving crisper skin and firmer flesh.