Baijiu: the national spirit of China
History and secrets of baijiu, China's clear grain spirit: sorghum distillation, qū ferment, Moutai aromas, the culture of ganbei and the banquet, drink of diplomacy.
La rédaction Kotoba
Studio éditorial
Around a table covered with steaming dishes, an elder raises a small glass filled with a clear liquid, calls out in a strong voice "ganbei!" and downs it in one. At once the whole table follows, glasses clinking, eyes meeting. The aroma is powerful, almost heady; the burn, sharp. This white and formidable spirit, at the heart of every Chinese banquet, is baijiu.
is China's traditional alcohol, a clear and very strong distilled spirit. Often overlooked in the West, it is nonetheless, by volume, the most consumed spirit in the world. The drink of banquets, of business and of diplomacy, it says a great deal about China: its relationship to the collective, to hierarchy and to the art of hosting. To understand it is to enter the ritual of the Chinese table.
A distilled grain spirit#
Baijiu is a distilled spirit, most often made from , sometimes supplemented with rice, wheat, corn or barley. The grain is cooked then mixed with a special ferment, the : a brick of crushed grain on which moulds, yeasts and bacteria proliferate, the Chinese equivalent of Japanese kōji or Korean nuruk, which begins the transformation of starch into sugars.
Then comes a solid-state fermentation, often in earthen pits or jars, sometimes lasting weeks, before distillation. The result is a clear but formidably strong spirit: most baijiu measure between thirty-five and sixty percent. Far from light spirits, it is a drink of character, made to accompany food and to punctuate toasts.
Baijiu is not sipped alone: it is drunk in chorus, to the rhythm of toasts, like the cement of the table.
The great aroma families#
Baijiu is traditionally classified by , which depends on the ferment, the fermentation and the terroir. The , complex and deep, is embodied by the famous of Guizhou, the most prestigious of baijiu. The , rich and fruity, dominates the market with brands such as Wuliangye.
The , cleaner and drier, is represented by Fenjiu from Shanxi. To these great categories are added the rice aroma and many other regional nuances. Each family has its devotees, and a good baijiu can reach dizzying prices: a bottle of aged Moutai trades like a grand cru.
The name 白酒 (baijiu) is transparent: bai (白) means "white" and jiu (酒) "alcohol." "White alcohol" refers not to a colour — baijiu is clear — but stands in contrast to huangjiu (黄酒), the "yellow alcohol," a fermented and undistilled grain wine. Baijiu, by contrast, is the clear distillate par excellence.
Ganbei: the art of drinking together#
Drinking baijiu follows a precise collective ritual. It is served in small glasses, and toasts are made in turn. The cry that paces the evening is , literally "dry glass": it invites you to drain your glass in one. To refuse to toast or to drink alone in your corner would be out of place; baijiu is a matter for the group.
The ritual is also hierarchical: you toast holding your glass a little lower than that of an elder or a superior, out of respect. At business dinners, the exchange of baijiu toasts seals trust and weaves guanxi (关系), the web of relationships indispensable in China. Far more than a drink, baijiu is a social language.
The spirit of the state and of diplomacy#
Baijiu, and Moutai in particular, has become a state spirit. Served at official banquets, offered to foreign dignitaries, it accompanies the great moments of Chinese diplomacy. The episode that remains famous is Nixon's visit in 1972: at the banquet, Premier Zhou Enlai toasted with Moutai alongside the American president, sealing in images the Sino-American thaw.
Read alsoSoju: The History and Etiquette of Korea's National SpiritLike baijiu in China, soju reigns over the tables of Korea — but lighter and drunk differently. To compare the two great national spirits of East Asia, discover the history of soju.
From the village's earthen jar to the glass of international summits, baijiu has accompanied Chinese life for centuries. To discover it is to understand a way of building society around the table — and to learn Chinese is to be able to raise your glass at the right moment, call out a sincere "ganbei," and grasp what the guests of a banquet say to one another between two toasts.
FAQ#
What is baijiu? Baijiu (白酒) is China's traditional alcohol, a clear and strong distilled spirit (often 35 to 60%), generally made from sorghum fermented with a ferment called qū. By volume, it is the most consumed spirit in the world.
What is the difference between baijiu and soju? Both are East Asian grain spirits, but Chinese baijiu is much stronger (35-60%) with powerful aromas, while Korean soju is lighter (around 16-20%) and more neutral. Baijiu is drunk in small glasses during toasts.
What does "ganbei" mean? Ganbei (干杯) literally means "dry glass": it is the invitation to drain your glass in one during a toast. It is the ritual cry of Chinese banquets, pacing the evening and sealing conviviality.
Why is Moutai so famous? Moutai (Maotai, 茅台) is the most prestigious baijiu, with a so-called "sauce" aroma. Served at state banquets and offered to foreign dignitaries, it is associated with Chinese diplomacy and reaches very high prices.
Photo credits: the images used in this article come from Pexels and Unsplash and are royalty-free.
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